Cuba 2017 – Cuban Cuisine – Letter from a Small Island

I had anticipated there being scarce resources in Cuba, particularly in relation to food, but I didn’t realise the extent of such limitations until trying to find a few basic food supplies, namely milk, bread, fresh fruit and veg.

Shopping ‘Spree’

Local ‘Supermarket’

The vast warehouse-style stores were practically void of stock, selling principally vegetable oil, rice, flour and sugar. These were all sparsely arranged on shelves and safely guarded behind wooden counters, in front of which local Cubans patiently awaited their turn to exchange their precious food vouchers.

Veneration Despite All …

Even our guide Michael, who reassured us that all could be found on the black market, failed to find milk – not UHT or powdered, let alone fresh – for Philip’s ‘well-travelled’ muesli!

Uniform Batch

I realised just how spoilt we are in terms of food supply and choice (even on a Caribbean island), particularly at the local bakery where large batches of simple white rolls were the only baked good on offer, distributed in number according to family size.

Local Grocery Store

The occasional fruit and vegetable stalls generally sold meagre piles of whatever happened to be in season, which obviously limited the selection. And sadly, for local Cubans, such fresh fare costs the equivalent of a week’s wages, so definitely not part of their regular regime.

It was thankfully not too much of a problem abandoning our self-catering plans, given that we were in Cuba for just a few days. Nevertheless, we will be better prepared next time, taking our own basic supplies – certainly powdered milk for Philip’s muesli!

Restaurante Café del Oriente

Dining out proved to be an equally challenging affair as most of the restaurants were run by sombre government appointed staff, whose listless despondency reflected the lacklustre food on offer. Even the plazas’ attractive colonial-style restaurants were devoid of culinary charm, so better enjoyed over a drink; but they clearly appealed to day-tripping tourists seemingly oblivious (or immune) to the canteen-style cuisine.

El Dandy

The poor quality food and distinct lack of local Cubans, made us seek more authentic places to dine, one of which happened to be right on our doorstep – El Dandy.
This great Cuban bar/restaurant is privately/family owned and known as a ‘Paladar’. Such private enterprises, recently approved by the government, are renowned for better quality food and service.

The menus are still rather limited (especially for a vegetarian), but given the circumstances, I relished my fresh ‘Greek’ salad – even twice in two days!